Surfing at El Porto

Surfing at 5:00 in the morning has become a weekly activity for me. I'm getting better, but I'm no Tyler Wilson. 'Ol Tyler can get out there and paddle around for hours without getting tired, like a little sea otter, but my shoulders don't last more than fifteen minutes. It's much more tiring than I ever thought it would be, and getting up on the board is a lot harder than it looks. BUT, I AM getting better, and I think I'll have it down after a few more times. I certainly don't mind going out there to crash and burn in the meantime, because the ocean itself, the sunrise, and the surf are enough to keep me happy. And then there's the occasional pod of dolphins that swim 25 yards off that adds to the whole experience. So yeah, I'm willing to put up with being thrashed a few times by the vicious waves to partake of the beauty of this Earth.